Money in Epau

Living here is close to living in a place where money isn't an issue. I realize I am living a charmed life here. I mean, our host families and the Peace Corps provide a great deal of support. But still, on a day to day basis I am starting to get a feel for how one aspect of life is different here for many ni-Vanuatu. People here don't have two jobs. They don't have to go work on Saturday or Sunday (as in go into work at an office, but Sunday truly is a day of rest here). They aren't drowning in debt or worried about foreclosure. They don't own a car or truck and don't have a lease or monthly payments.

Most days, food is gathered from a garden or from the bush. Fish is caught from the ocean. The coconut, which really is the tree of life for the island, is plentiful. In Vila, this is different and people buy their food, but here in Epau most families grow and sell aelan kakae (island food), such as manioc, taro, island cabbage, and various fruits.

It isn't that money doesn't exist here. It isn't that it is not used or needed. But it doesn't dominate every aspect of life as it does in America. As a topic, money comes up once in a while in conversation, instead of constantly imposing itself.

How boys go home: On our way back from a swim in the river, Jackjack plays a game of throwing his shirt as high as he can and tries to catch it. We also threw burred seeds at each other and made spears from tall grass stalks.

That said, some things are expensive here. Eggs were about $1.10 a dozen when I left the U.S. They are more like $3.50-$4.00 here. Individual eggs cost 50 cents, and the price of a dozen eggs has been as high as $5.00.

For grades 1-8, school is inexpensive here. Families pay a minimal "contribution", which is subsidized by the government. But starting in grade 9, the cost increases dramatically to 20,000 to 30,000 Vatu ($200-$300) per semester. (There are 3 semesters per year, which I know are trimesters but they call them semesters here.). On top of that, families must pay for uniforms, books and supplies, and transportation to and from school. It gets expensive.

A man displays a kava plant dug up that morning. Kava is ground and juiced into a popular psychoactive drink. Everyone agrees the taste is terrible, but many enjoy the effects. It is also a source of income for the Ni-Vanuatu.

No electricity means no electric bill. Solar powered LED lights replaced kerosene lamps almost overnight in about 2010 (in Epau anyway). Rain provides drinking water, so no water bill. Epau's water system provides water for toilets and washing, and is drinkable (after boiling). Frequently the taps are dry, if only for short periods.

The Peace Corps provides a solar panel, LED light, and phone for every volunteer. The phone may be charged from a USB port on the back of the light. The light has 3 brightness settings and swivels on a stand (not pictured) that allows it to be used as a desk lamp. Coffee cup for scale (sorry, didn't have a banana).

As an exercise, we had a group of several community members make a community map. I won't go into all the details, but it isn't just a physical map. The purpose of creating it is to get people thinking about their community as a whole, what they do or don't like about it, what makes sense, and so on. One of the questions we ask is, What do you not have now that you do not want to have? That looks like a double negative, but here's an example: We don't have a brothel and we don't want one. Make sense? Ok, here's what they listed under that category: a resort, logging, and Unelco, which is the electric company.

I think not wanting a logging company is easy to understand, and there are pros and cons to a resort. But they don't have electricity and don't want it. It isn't that they don't know what electricity is. They know but still don't want it. One way to look at this (not my way) is that they're backwards and don't get it. Another way is to consider that they in fact do know what they have now, know it is a good thing, and know that adding electricity is a huge, irreversible step that would change the village forever. The reality is probably somewhere in between.

We polled only a handful, so who knows? But I like knowing there is a village somewhere with a different view, and I think it is worth pondering.