Back at the Port Vila Holiday Inn

I havent posted since my last post because the Holiday Inn Wi Fi stopped working, and there was no connectivity at our training village of Epau.

We abruptly learned early this afternoon that a tropical storm heading our way was starting to look like a cyclone. The PC evacuated all trainees back to the Port Vila Holiday Inn, and we'll probably be here until Sunday. Maybe the Wi Fi will even keep working.

What PCTs fleeing a hurricane look like.

So while it may look like we just hang out at this resort, we've all been living with our own host families and having adventures. I've been writing notes on my Ipad about the adventures. I didnt write every night. Most night I didnt write. Many times i am just done with the day, or we have some evening session or function. Anyway, here are the notes I did write.

Tip: PST=pre service training, PCV=peace corps volunteer, PCT=peace corps trainee, which is what We are until we're sworn in.

Friday, April 21
Today my group, the Literacy group, was brought to the town of T'Pau for our pre service training. We were met by dozens of people of the village and shook everyone's hand in a big long line. A couple of dignitaries said some important words and blessings, all of the female volunteers were given colorful, handmade dresses, then we had a sort of hors d'ouvres feast. It is difficult to know what to do with a whole fried fish when you have no plate or silverware. A current volunteer told me that fish here was a delicacy. Not wanting to insult them, I downed my drink (not a real drink, no drinking during PST) and put my fish in a glass. The villagers just laughed at this, so I think it was ok.

PCT being greeted by villagers

We then were escorted by our host families to the homes we will share with them for the next few weeks. Now, we've had a few language classes but I soon realized I didn't know how to say a damn thing. The family gathered around and seemed to all be looking at me expectantly. I pulled out my family pictures, and that helped a little. Everyone likes to see what your relatives look like.

We have an assignment to create a family tree. Know that everyone in the village is related in some way and knows each other very well. The kids are free to go and stay anywhere with anyone in the village. Anyone can discipline and care for them. It is a beautiful sight. So, a comprehensive family tree would at the least include every single person in the village.

I started asking about who was who and how they were related. I managed to take a few notes, but was overwhelmed by the number of new names and faces. People kept popping in, I'd stop to introduce myself (the only thing I could remember), then be embarrassed to forget their name and try again. Repeat ad nauseam.

After feeling like I was drowning for a while my host father invited me to get kava. Thank god. That's an analog to saying let's go to the bar. Whether this was a lifeline or he just wanted to goo, it was perfect.

Kava bars are not like bars in many ways. Kava does not affect people like alcohol does. With kava, people tend to like quiet and low lights, and to chill out. The effects of kava include a feeling of general well being and mellowness. It is no wonder that it is traditionally used before big business or important matters because it gets everyone to chill out, and it doesn't impair cognitive function. There is no hangover.

That wrapped up the night and it was great. And the stars. Wow.

Saturday, April 22
Today started with the roosters, and it started at about 3am I think. I stayed in bed until 5 or six, fading in and out between thoughts of strangling roosters. That's just how it is here and I'll get used to it.

The chickens and roosters just wander around and reproduce freely. I don't think there is any ownership of them, none that I have heard of anyway. They reproduce and lay eggs wherever. The eggs aren't gathered, so there are chicks too. Villagers purchase eggs for eating.

There are many dogs in the village, and a handful of cats. The dogs are working dogs. Someone told me that the dogs chase pigs or rats out of the gardens. Spaying and neutering is not a thing here. The cats are inside cats. Inside is a loose term here, since any cat could easily escape the loosely built houses with so many windows, which are always open. They must know enough to stay inside I guess. The dogs are smallish, like a terrier.

Breakfast was a bunch of mini peanut butter sandwiches made from biscuits. I can't tell how much to not eat is rude, but they give me so many biscuits. This family is so nice and has built a separate room just for me (edit: nope, they built it a couple years ago, but its a great room and generous of them to share it). I think all the pcvs have the same setup, and the people do get paid for it, but still they are awfully welcoming. Another edit: Ive since learned that they dont normally eat peanut butter as it is too expensive. They get it for us.

I went swimming in the river with some of the other pcvs and a bunch of kids from the village. Those kids are great swimmers. Our normal shower is supposed to be a bucket shower, but just jumping in the river is way better. The water was cold but in the heat felt wonderful. The bucket shower water comes from the river anyway, so why not just jump in the river instead?

A group of we pcvs went to the kava bar last night. Kava bars are nothing like bars as I've said before, and these are open air, outdoor places, so I use the term bar only because they do. While well behaved, we were the Americans there for sure. We were not quiet and chilling like the locals. I asked a local if we were too loud, and she just smiled and said yes. They tolerate us so nicely. I probably won't go to the kava bar with a group again, though I'd go with a couple people.

There are enormous hermit crabs here. Found one on the way back from the kava bar that was almost the size of a tennis ball. Another one was in my toilet (toilet referring to the whole small out building). I've always liked the harmless little things. They built us our own outhouses. We have to dump water into them to "flush" but mine has a door and beats a hole in the ground. Culturally here, everyone is always asking where everyone else is going. "Yu go wea?" is a common greeting. Anyway the kids always point out when I'm going to the toilet, an announcement beloved by all.

Sunday, April 23
Last night, I was awakened a couple times by the familiar scratch scratch of a hermit crab noodling along. Well no, I found out this morning it was a rat and it ate all of the little treats I'd brought along share with kids. Fortunately my backpack was open so it didn't chew its way in. No harm done, just a bummer. All of my personal food is now in a sealed bucket. The rats here are fortunately smaller, like really big mice or the size of white lab rats. They're still fucking rats of course.

After church

We had church this morning. There are a number of churches in this small village, and my family belongs to the Presbyterian one. In spite of their efforts I am still not converted. I am hoping I won't have to go every Sunday. They don't go, by the way. Well, the oldest one went with me but I don't think he was into it, and maybe even just drew the short straw and had to go with me.

Everyone is well dressed in church, but it is overwhelmingly loud. They bought an oversized sound system and have it cranked to eleven. I left partway through to run home and get earplugs, then I came back. Im pretty sure my host brother sings and harmonizes quite well. The small village has 5 churches, and I don't know what the others are like. Service isn't all that different. There was a lot more singing, and there seemed to be a part just for kids too. Everyone went up and gave some money to the church, except me. Nobody told me to bring cash to church, so I felt a little dumb, but I don't think anyone minded. Afterward the female volunteers looked mostly uncomfortable and hot in their nice new dresses.

Tuesday, April 25
By accident I ended up having the best conversation I've been able to have in Bislama so far.

I went to see a tutor for help, but she wasn't there. I'm assuming I had the time wrong. I wandered onto the soccer field, as earlier I'd been talking with a couple other vols about where to run. I'm not a runner, but there is no gym here, so... Anyway it looked like the perimeter of the soccer field would make a good track, and it did, even barefoot. (I didn't pack any kind of sneakers or running shoes, only sandals and a pair of crocs.). It was almost dark, but I thought I could get in a few laps.

A child started running behind me, calling out my name. It's like that here, the whole village knows all about us. He is 9 years old and named Ryan. While we ran and after I stopped, he asked me questions I was able to answer, and he spoke clearly enough that I could follow him, for the most part. (I have trouble following many of the kids, my ear just isn't good enough yet.)

It was a real relief to have a conversation, as simple as it was. First time that has happened and it felt pretty good.

Earlier today I asked one of my new relatives to show me how to husk, open and shred a coconut. I think I nailed it. I asked how much coconuts cost here. She looked at me funny, so I thought I messed up my Bislama again. No, it turns out coconuts don't cost anything, and that's why she had such a quizzical expression. To a large extent this is a no money society. I mean not completely, but a lot of stuff here is just considered everyone's and is free. I am sure it is different in the capital city, but out in a rural village life is different. For example, a 9 year old child started running with me at night, we had a conversation, and nobody would think anything of it. Another example: you could walk into the bush, gather plenty of food (coconut, banana, grapefruit, breadfruit, manioc, taro, naos [sort of like an apple], or a dozen other things) and come home and make dinner, and thay would be ok too.

They have so many kinds of bananas here, it is just amazing. There are dessert bananas, which are small, light and sweet, and large ones that almost have a potato consistency. Bananas are extensively used in cooking. My host family bakes bread almost daily, using a covered pot and cooked in an open fire. It is as good as fresh bread anywhere. Made with coconut milk, it is even better. While a labor of love, I can see making that again.

Wednesday, April 26
Today I learned how to make a fire, and how to make coconut milk. The best thing about this that the fire was made entirely of coconut as was the coconut milk. Quite the tree. It takes a lot of work to make coconut milk. I'll appreciate it more now.

PCTs carving coconut shells into kava cups

Otherwise, class consisted of a visit to a local school where we observed two classes, a Class 8 (13-14 yo) and a kindergarten class. The teacher of the first wasn't very good, but the kindergarten teachers really knew how to manage a classroom of little ones, and we were all impressed and learned a lot.

My host father is one cool dude, btw.

Being with a group of people much younger than myself can be isolating. I like everyone in our group and have had some time to get to know a few of them. We have a lot more not in common than in common. Even if I had an encyclopaedic knowledge of the ouevre of Kendrick Lamarr, it wouldn't be enough. After our PST, we wont see much of each other anyway, so I just have to make the best of it and get through this phase.